Licorice: The Sweet (and Sometimes Controversial) Star of Candy Culture

Licorice, the distinctive black confection loved passionately by some and avoided equally strongly by others, holds a unique place in the history of sweets. Its bold flavor, chewy texture, and unmistakable aroma have shaped candy traditions across Europe, the Middle East, and beyond. While the plant Glycyrrhiza glabra has been used for thousands of years in herbal medicine, it is in candy-making that licorice has achieved true cult status. From salty Nordic varieties to classic black twists and soft allsorts, it has remained a fascinating, polarizing, and culturally meaningful treat.

This article explores why this spice became such a powerful force in the candy world, how it is made, and why its flavor inspires devotion like few others.

What Exactly Is Licorice? The Root Behind the Candy

Real licorice candy originates from the root of the so named plant, a legume native to the Mediterranean region and parts of Asia. The root contains a natural sweet compound called glycyrrhizin, which is up to 50 times sweeter than sugar. When extracted and concentrated, it forms a thick, dark syrup known as “licorice extract.” This extract is what gives the candy its deep, earthy sweetness and characteristic aroma.

However, not all modern candies using this flavor contain true extract. In many countries—especially the United States—“black licorice” flavor is often created using anise or fennel oil, which mimics it’s taste. Still, in many European regions (especially the Netherlands, Italy, Germany, and Scandinavia), genuine extract remains a prized and essential ingredient.

The Birth of Licorice Candy: From Ancient Remedy to Sweet Delight

It’s root was first used medicinally by ancient Egyptians, Greeks, and Chinese practitioners. It soothed sore throats, eased coughs, and flavored herbal concoctions. But the idea of transforming this medicinal extract into something sweet and enjoyable emerged much later.

The turning point came in 17th-century Europe, particularly in England. Apothecaries who used the plant extract in lozenges began adding sugar and flour to make the mixture more palatable. Over time, this evolved into Pontefract cakes, small, stamped, chewy licorice coins that became enormously popular.

By the 19th and early 20th centuries, it was firmly established as a confectionery ingredient. Candy makers around Europe experimented with shapes, textures, and flavor pairings, giving rise to many of the sweets known today.

How Licorice Candy Is Made

Although recipes vary across countries and brands, traditional licorice candy generally involves a combination of:

• Extract (from the real root)
• Sugar or molasses
• Starch or flour for structure
• Gelatin or gum arabic for softness and chew
• Flavorings such as anise oil, mint, or fruit essences
• Coloring (carbon black or natural alternatives)
  

The mixture is heated, aerated, and poured into molds or extruded into long ropes and cut into pieces. Depending on the formulation, the result can be:

• Chewy
• Firm
• Soft and creamy
• Hard and brittle
  

This versatility allows the plant to appear in many forms—from shoelaces and twists to pastilles, candies, and layered sweets.

Licorice Around the World: A Candy with Cultural Identity

This candy is far from uniform. In fact, it varies dramatically from region to region, often reflecting local tastes and culinary traditions.

1. Northern Europe: The Kingdom of Salty Licorice

If black licorice is already polarizing, the salty one (“salmiakki”) takes that to a whole different level. Popular in Finland, Sweden, Denmark, and the Netherlands, the salty version contains ammonium chloride, giving it a sharp, mineral, salty edge.

Fans describe it as addictive.
Others describe it as a dare.

Either way, it is a cultural symbol in Nordic countries, appearing in candies, ice creams, liqueurs, and even potato chips.

2. The Netherlands: The World’s Licorice Powerhouse

The Dutch consume more of it per capita than any nation on earth. Their shelves are stocked with endless varieties:

• Soft
• Hard
• Sweet
• Salty
• Honey-scented
• Coin-shaped
• Cats, cars, and geometric forms
  

Each variation expresses a different tradition, texture preference, or familial nostalgia.

3. Italy: Strong, Pure, Herbal

Italian licorice often contains very high concentrations of real extract. The Calabrian version, in particular, is known for its intense, almost medicinal purity. Hard pastilles and tiny lozenges dominate, sometimes with zero added sugar.

4. United States: Red “Licorice”—A Candy in Name Only

In the U.S., “red licorice” has become more popular than the black one, even though it contains no actual extract at all. Cherry, strawberry, and raspberry twists dominate the market. True black licorice candies are less common, though still appreciated by a loyal group of enthusiasts.

Why People Love (or Hate) Licorice Candy

The flavor of the real product is bold and complex. It is sweet, earthy, herbal, slightly bitter, and lingering. This combination creates strong emotional reactions—both positive and negative.

Reasons people love this candy flavor:

• Its flavor is deep and nostalgic
• It’s associated with childhood memories in many cultures
• It has a uniquely satisfying chew
• It pairs well with salt, mint, honey, citrus, and even chocolate
• It feels “grown-up” compared to sugary candies
  

Reasons others dislike it:

• The flavor can be too herbal or medicinal
• Salty licorice can be overwhelming
• Some people associate the taste with cough drops
• Its bitterness can surprise those accustomed to sweeter candies
  

This polarization is part of it’s charm. It is not a neutral sweet. It demands a strong opinion.

Licorice’s Role in Modern Candy Culture

Despite countless new confectionery trends, the plant remains surprisingly resilient. Craft candy makers continue to revive traditional methods, using real root instead of artificial flavorings. Artisanal licorice brands in Australia, Scandinavia, and Europe have elevated it to gourmet status, experimenting with:

• Dark chocolate coatings
• Chili-infused licorice
• Salted caramel blends
• Unique textures and slow-cooked methods
  

This spice, once considered old-fashioned, is experiencing a renaissance. Young consumers are rediscovering its bold flavor, and chefs are incorporating it into desserts and cocktails.

Conclusion: A Candy with Character

Licorice is more than a confection—it is a cultural symbol, a historical artifact, and a flavor that continues to inspire strong loyalties. Whether soft or chewy, sweet or salty, traditional or modern, it maintains a personality unlike any other candy. It is bold, expressive, and unapologetically itself.

In a world of predictable, sugary treats, licorice stands apart—dark, mysterious, and enduring.